Installation of entrance lighting does not have to be as complex as you might think. It depends entirely on the design of the device, the complexity of the structure, and how you want the lights to be distributed throughout the device.
The first thing to do when installing the entrance light is to make a learning drawing. To do this, you need a ribbon, a pencil and a piece of paper. The completed drawing does not have to be too detailed, but the units must be displayed proportionally. The simple A4 paper shows the shape of the lane in a 1:50 ratio is perfect.
In the drawing, you must indicate the source of the power source, which may be your junction box, although you can choose to remove the power from an auxiliary power source such as a garage. If in doubt, consult an electrician to determine if the selected power supply provides sufficient power.
Then mark where you want public lighting. This is an art form, not a science, although you must follow some rules:
For a typical 3 meter high dual height public lighting system, you must align a light every 6 to 10 meters along the road. Putting the lamp post on the side of the road saves money because every time you cross the road, you must lock the cable in a pipe that may have to be surrounded by concrete.
All street lights require a junction box (a simple prefabricated access hole approximately 60 cm deep) that can be purchased from the dealer. They were mounted on a concrete bed about 100 mm thick. They want to be one meter away from the lights they control and placed on a line. There must also be a junction box on each side of the drive connector.
You can now start installing the entrance lights. You may want to hire an excavator, or you can dig yourself by hand.
The extraction pipes are excavated in the trenches (these are plastic, about 5 cm in diameter, rolled into a roll); this should have a depth of about 45 to 60 cm and a width of about 30 cm. Place the pipe (and the inside of the wire) on a sand bed and cover it with a depth of about 10 cm above the cable. Fill the rest of the ditch with dirt.
Excavate in any ditches along the driveway (commercial resin driveway), but try a bed that is at least 60 cm deep (and preferably longer) above and around the pipe, with concrete up to 10 to 15 cm deep. Fill the groove with a graded stone, taking care to compact it (if the quantity is small or this can cause problems, use concrete). Replace the road surface.
Install the junction box on the concrete bed and place a short conduit at the exact location of each lamp. Make sure this pipe continues to rise above the ground by about 1 meter. When leaving the ground, place a concrete base (about 1 square meter) around each vertical pipe. These are the foundations of the luminaires, so their location is critical.
Fix the basics of public lighting on concrete; this may involve drilling concrete and installing metal balls or using bolts and expansion resins, but for more information, see the lantern installation instructions. Use the shoelace to route the cable through the pipe and chamber. You can choose to create a T-joint on the camera (in which case it must withstand the weather) or make a loop on the lamp post. If in doubt, ask an electrician to do it.
Connect the cables to the connectors in the common lighting base (very easy) and assemble the rest of the lamp post, including the lantern adjustment bulb if they don’t already have one. Finally, connect the system to the mains, preferably to a qualified electrician, who can also focus on the rest of the work.